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The
most interesting places in the East of Asturias
can be accessed in little time from any of the rural
tourism houses. |
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Direction to Posada. From this point we access the
C-63 coast road between Llanes and Ribadesella.
This is the former N-364, so it is in good condition.
The most interesting and less crowded beaches in
this route are the Toranda and Torimbia (nudist)
in Niembru; Gulpiyuri(interior) and La Guelga between
Naves and Hontoria; Cuevas and El Canal, near Pría;
La Ballota in Andrín, and the Toró
beach in Llanes. There are a lot more, but these
are the best. |
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Little can be added to the most popular route in
the East, but the author of this guide recommends
these visits. Drive to the Riaño Natural
Reserve, occupied in its larger part by the Riaño
reservoir, a very picturesque and interesting place.
Go back to the diversion towards Posada de Valdeon,
close to the Ponton pass summit. This is the access
to the area from Asturias, by the N-637, accessing
it in Cangas de Onis. There are a few kilometres
to be driven, but it is worth visiting the area
that was flooded 12 years ago when the Riaño
dam was built. The viaduct crossing the reservoir
towards Cistierna has to be highlighted. The road
linking the Alto del Ponton with Posada de Baldeon
is very winding, but well tarmacked. The Alto del
Pandebano offers very beautiful views. It is worth
having dinner and spending the night in Posada de
Baldeon, in any of its rural hotels. This is a meeting
point for climbers and walkers, so nightlife is
lively without being hectic. A tarmacked track has
to be followed in the morning, after a good breakfast,
towards Cordiñanes and Caín. The journey
can be carried out with a normal vehicle, although
the beauty of the landscape invites doing this on
foot. Without rushing, and contemplating the landscape,
we can reach Cain in three hours, the end of the
journey of the usual route that starts in Pancebos.
In our case, this is an intermediate point and beginning
of the Cares gauge. |
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Not very well known amongst the trekking circuits,
but well known amongst the local people, used to
taking the cattle to graze in the mountain
passes. From there we can drive, towards the
North, to Cosagra, at about 2 kilometres. This was
a beautiful prairie years ago, surrounded by old
chestnut trees, with a river and a few shepherd
huts. Today it is a tip full of rocks and dust,
thanks to the human race. We will park our car in
Cosagra, and then take a very steep concrete covered
track, towards Ilcedo (El Ceu, in the dialect of
the area). In about 40-50 minutes, with occasional
stops to admire the beauty of the area, we will
reach El Ceu. This is an old shepherds and cattle
breeders hamlet. Its huts, about half a dozen, are
uninhabited for most of the year. Until not long
ago, there were two families living here, without
electricity, running water or telephone. Their only
link to the civilised world was Juan
el Mellau, who acted as the messenger and provisions
supplier, who visited the locality once a day on
his donkey. Let these words serve as prayer for
his soul. A long rest and frugal lunch is worthwhile,
due to the quietness found here. >From this point
we will continue along a path heading to the North,
towards Vega Ibeu. As its name indicates (vega in
Spanish is water meadow), this is a grazing meadow,
with holm oaks scattered around and maybe a mare
with her colt. From Ibeu we continue until reaching
Pedrosu, a small cattle breeder hamlet. This is
linked to Benia and Le Robellada (Rebollada on the
map) by a tarmacked track. We do recommend this
way, as it is very quiet and not difficult. Leaving
La Robellada for the AS-15, El Cerezu traditional
inn, or chigre in the local dialect
can be found. Very good cider, chorizo and fried
eggs can be eaten here. A very winding tarmacked
track will take us to El Escobal, a very similar
town to El Pedrosu, with a rural hotel and a bar-cafeteria;
at this point the tarmacked track ends and a rocky
track starts, towards Terviña. This is one
of the most beautiful natural spots in the East
of Asturias. It used to be a grazing meadow, crossed
by the Riu de Terviña. |
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